Written by Amy, pictures by Joel and Amy.
Saturday March 15, 2014
We left home at 7:08AM – the plan was to drive about 10 hours on our way to Santa Fe. The halfway point for the day was Kansas City. We arrived there at about 11:30AM and tried going to Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ for lunch. Well, they already had a line going WAY outside the door and through the parking lot, so we didn’t wait. Amy used the GPS to find Quick’s BBQ on Merriam, which was only a mile or two away, so we went there. Tasted fine. We shared a burnt ends meal – good!
Back on the road, we got on I-70 to start across Kansas. It was in the upper 70s outside, so Amy researched attractions (using the AAA tour book and the Internet via our mobile hotspot). We stopped in Abilene, KS at Dwight Eisenhower’s boyhood home, Presidential library and museum.

Ike’s house.


We walked the grounds of the Eisenhower library, then went across the street to the Racing Greyhound Hall of Fame. They had two greyhounds that roam the facility! Also information about greyhound history and racing Hall of Fame.


We decided to take back roads from the Greyhound Hall of Fame on our way to Dodge City instead of taking the Interstate. We started on Kansas Hwy 15 south out of Abilene to US Hwy 56 west, which took us all of the way to Dodge City. We stopped in Great Bend at the Chosen Wok for a quick dinner. It cost $4.95 for each large entree and rice. After leaving Great Bend, we ran into some mini dust storms. The wind stirred up dust into the air, making it hard to see, and it hit our car. Yuck! A little scary, too.

We checked into the Super 8 in Dodge City. Nothing going on there at night – disappointing town. Very windy. We wanted ice cream, and the only place around was the Dairy Queen right next to our hotel, so we walked over.
Sunday March 16, 2014
For breakfast, we skipped the meager offerings at the Super 8 and went to the IHOP and then started the six-hour drive to Santa Fe. We stayed on US Hwy 56, heading SW through the corner of Kansas and then through the Oklahoma panhandle into New Mexico.
Just across the border in Clatyon, NM, we turned on US Hwys 64/85 toward the Capulin Volcano National Monument.We could see it from quite a ways away.

We stopped at the visitor center and bought our pass. It was 40 degrees, but very windy, so it felt much colder. We drove to the top of the cinder volcano and took a walk around the perimeter of the caldera (about a mile). Though it was chilly, the views were beautiful – we could see snow-capped peaks in the west, and mule deer in the caldera.





We left the Monument and drove west, merging onto Interstate 25 south toward Santa Fe. We arrived at about 3PM local time, gaining an hour from the time-zone change. We pulled into the Residence Inn, but when Joel went to check in, they had no reservation on file – Joel had apparently forgotten to hit “Confirm” on the reservation Web page! Luckily, they had availability, so Joel pulled out his tablet, connected to the hotel WiFi and made a new reservation using Marriott points (the front desk couldn’t do it for some reason).
After getting settled in, we drove to downtown Santa Fe and walked around the Plaza- it was a bit cool, but a beautiful evening. We saw shops (some more touristy than others), went into the St. Francis Cathedral Basilica – very picturesque. We then went to dinner at the Rooftop Pizzeria – we had a couple of locally brewed beers (Marble Brewery from Albuquerque) and a pizza with toppings that included roasted garlic cloves. Even had leftovers to take back to the hotel!
Back at the hotel, we watched an episode of House of Cards on Netflix (we had also watched one in Dodge City). Amy had started having a heavily running nose at dinner, but slept fine and didn’t seem to be sick! At sundown, from our hotel room’s balcony, Joel snapped a picture of the sunset over the mountains with the lights of Sante Fe in the foreground:

Monday March 17, 2014
We ate breakfast at the hotel, then stopped at Walgreens for sunglasses for Joel, batteries for Amy’s camera and Cold-EZE and Kleenex for Amy. We headed up north to the Ghost Ranch, which is where Georgia O’Keeffe lived half of the year and Ansel Adams painted scenes. It was a beautiful drive, as you can see from this shot we took from a pullout on the road:

Once at Ghost Rance, we did a three-mile round-trip hike to Chimney Rock – well worth it:

Here’s the view from the top of the hike, looking DOWN on Chimney Rock:

Here we are heading back down:

On the way back down, we met a couple who were just starting up. Turns out that they were from Iowa City! The man is a professor at the University of Iowa. We chatted for a moment, then headed into the museum at the Ranch and learned a bit about dinosaurs. The docent enjoyed talking to Joel because Joel had some dinosaur knowledge – all from listening to the Wee Sing Dinosaurs audio tapes with the kids when they were little!
After the museum, we decided to head to Taos. There were no direct routes on major highways, so Amy mapped a course on back roads. All was going well until all of a sudden, the road turns to gravel and starts a steep, narrow descent into a canyon! It was a scary road, but luckily our rental car was up to the task. At the bottom was the Rio Grande river – there was a small parking lot with a trailhead, so we took a short, two-mile hike paralleling the river amongst black, piled-up rocks and brush and cactus to a great view of a steep gorge and the river:

That was the first river we’d seen that had much water in it.
Back in the car, the gravel didn’t last much longer as it turned back to pavement as it crossed the river:

After crossing the bridge, we drive south (away from Taos), parallel to the river until we intersected with Highway 68, which we took back north to Taos. As we drove north, we looked to the west and saw the road on which we had driven from the Ghost Ranch and could see it descending into the Rio Grande canyon:

Once in Taos, we walked around a bit, but didn’t have a lot of time because we wanted to drive the High Road back to Sante Fe and wanted it to still be daylight so we could enjoy the scenery. While walking around, the wind kicked up and started a little dust storm. We ate dinner at La Cueva Mexican restaurant. Amy had “Christmas” sauce on her burrito, made of a mixture of green and red chiles. The food was very good – they only had about five indoor tables (too windy and dusty to sit outside!) and we were lucky to get one.
Back on the drive, we took the High Road. Much of the way, the landscape seemed more like Colorado than New Mexico, with lots of evergreen trees and even a few patches of snow. For two sections, the road narrowed to barely one-and-one-half lane wide as we drove through residential areas. We made it back to Highway 285 just as it was getting dark. There was a huge traffic backup as we neared Sante Fe – it was a sobriety checkpoint, probably due to it being St Patrick’s Day. We finally made it back to the hotel after being gone for over 11 hours or so.
Tuesday March 18, 2014
On our way out of town, we bought coffee at a little drive-up stand – for Sam Caster’s sake, we asked about the roaster, and it was “Aroma”, which is a brand roasted locally in Sante Fe. In any case, it was very good. We then stopped at Trader Joe’s to see if they had any Passover food, but it was too early and they had nothing in stock. Our destination for the day was Bandelier National Monument, which features Pueblo and Anasazi cliff dwellings. From the visitor center, we hiked past the ruins and reconstructed dwellings.


We saw petroglyphs, which are images that the ancient inhabitants created by carving away from a rock face. The best example was this parrot:

We were able to climb into some of the reconstructed cliff dwellings, using wood-pole ladders.

At the turnaround point of our hike was the Alcove House, where we climbed 140 vertical feet, using a total of four ladders. In the Alcove House, there was a kiva that the rangers discovered that still had intact bedding, etc. after 450 years!

The Alcove House was quite large – here’s partial picture of it with Amy by the kiva to show scale:

And here’s a panorama that Joel stitched together from three separate pictures looking from the back of the Alcove House to entrance:

After hiking back from the Alcove House to the visitor center (about 2.5 mile round-trip), we sat at a picnic bench and ate leftover pizza. Then it was time to start the long drive back to Iowa.
To get back to Interstate 25, we had to backtrack to Sante Fe, so we stopped at an Albertson’s grocery store to see if THEY had had any Passover items (since Trader Joe’s didn’t). They did have Yehuda matzah, whole-wheat matzah and matzah-ball soup mix, but nothing other than the basics. We hopped on I-25 to start our trip home.
As we headed north toward Colorado, before we reached the town of Springer, NM, we could see low, dark “clouds” up ahead. Amy looked on the Internet and saw that there was a wide-spread wind advisory with blowing dust. The beautiful blue sky disappeared and was replaced with thick dust that blocked the sun and severely reduced visibility. We missed the wonderful views of mountains as we left New Mexico and headed into Colorado.
After crossing the border, we took a diagonal route, Highway 350 northeast toward Interstate 70, heading toward the town of La Junta. This was the most desolate road of the whole trip. There was literally no civilization for that whole segment – barely any oncoming traffic and very spotty cellphone service. Our plan was to stop in La Junta or Lamar for dinner and gas. Though cellphone service was intermittent (and Internet non-existent), we were able to text Gail back in Cedar Rapids and ask her to Google restaurants. She found the Bamboo Panda in La Junte, and it was a good choice. As we stopped to park, the air quality had improved, but it was still very windy and there was still a lot of dust.
After leaving the restaurant, we headed east toward Garden City, Kansas, which was to be our stop for the night. About 20 miles from Garden City, we pulled over to look at the night sky. The sky was now clear of dust, and so dark – the stars were so bright! We hid behind the car to block the cold wind as we looked up in wonder – it was like we were in a planetarium, with the Milky Way showing all of its glory. We then finished the drive into Garden City and checked into our hotel.
Wednesday March 19, 2014
We got an early start onto the road and faced our big decision of the day: whether to drive through Omaha and see Jack and Bette or to take the direct route home through Kansas City, perhaps stopping yet again to look for Passover food. Amy called around and discovered that the Hen House grocery store chain in KC had a reputation for stocking the most Passover goods, so she called them to see if they had kosher liver so we could have chopped liver at the seder. They did not. But nonetheless, we decided to still go through KC and try again to get into Oklahoma Joe’s for BBQ.
We drove on Highway 56 east across Kansas, but as we went, we changed our minds and decided to go to Omaha after all (after calling Jack and Bette to let them know!). So we cut north on Highway 77. And we did get some BBQ at Cox Brothers BBQ in Junction City, Kansas. It was pretty good, but was no replacement for Okie Joe’s! Junction City is the home of Fort Riley, which itself is the home of the US Army’s 1st Infantry Division, aka the Big Red One so we treated ourselves to a little online World War II history lesson.
Still heading north, we went through Marysville, Kansas, which bills itself as “The Home of the Black Wild Squirrels” (we didn’t see any). Near Marysville, we saw road signs for the Sante Fe Trail (most of our trip was near it), the Oregon Trail and the Pony Express route.
After crossing the Nebraska border and driving the outskirts of Lincoln, we headed on Interstate 80 into Omaha, then stopped for about an hour to see Jack and Bette. Then it was time for the final leg home. Since we had no food in the house, we made one last stop – as we drove by Newton, Iowa, we saw a sign for Montana Mike’s steakhouse. Since we’d seen one of them in nearly every town in Kansas and New Mexico, we decided to stop for dinner. It was OK. We then got back in the car and finished the drive, arriving home at about 9PM. Whew!
THE END